If you’ve ever graced the likes of TikTok and Instagram Reels, you’ll know the skin barrier is a subject of much discussion. Be it #skinfluencers or cosmetics brands, products designed to help repair a damaged skin barrier are the latest trend – for example, The Inkey List has recently launched its ectoin hydro-barrier serum (£15, Boots.com), which aims to hydrate and strengthen the skin barrier.
The question is: what is the skin barrier? And why is everyone’s – it would seem – in need of some damage repair? We wanted to get to the crux of the matter and find some clear-cut answers among all the speculation and paid advertising.
Thankfully, dermatologist Dr Hassan Galadari came to the rescue, with both simple solutions and a scientific breakdown of terms – so you can crack on with your cleansing and moisturising, confident in the knowledge you’re doing what’s best for your skin.
Scroll on for all of Dr Galadari’s tips, tricks and kernels of wisdom.
Dr Hassan Galadari is a consultant dermatologist and secretary general of The International Society of Dermatology. He has been working in the field of dermatology – as a medical doctor, university professor and committee member – for more than 15 years and now is co-founder of his own skin clinic: the Galadari Derma Clinic in Dubai.
“Your skin barrier is your body’s frontline defence,” Dr Galadari tells The Independent. “It’s the outermost layer of your skin and keeps moisture in, and harmful stuff – like bacteria and pollution – out.”
Getting technical, he describes how the skin barrier is made up of lipids (oils), dead skin cells, and a mix of ceramides, fatty acids, and cholesterol. “When the skin barrier is healthy,” he says, “your skin stays hydrated, smooth, and strong. When it’s compromised, you’ll notice issues like dryness, redness or irritation creeping in.”
“Fixing a damaged skin barrier is all about hydration and soothing care,” claims Dr Galadari. He recommends those suffering with a damaged skin barrier to look for products with ceramides, hyaluronic acid, and niacinamide. “These ingredients,” he clarifies, “are brilliant for restoring moisture and repairing your skin’s protective layer.”
Dr Galadari also advises to “steer clear of harsh products like strong exfoliants (AHAs, BHAs) or retinoids, as they can make things worse”. Instead, he suggests we should stick to more sensitive-skin-friendly products, such as non-stripping cleansers, thick, barrier-repairing moisturisers and, of course, don’t forget the SPF. “Sun exposure can slow down your skin’s recovery and make the damage worse.” adds Galadari.
Read more: This is how much SPF you should be using, even in winter
Put simply, Dr Galadari tells us: “You’ll know your skin barrier is struggling if your skin feels dry, flaky or tight.”
He describes redness, inflammation and/or itchiness as indicators of a suffering skin barrier and adds: “If your usual skincare stings or feels uncomfortable, that’s another sign.”
What’s more, he explains a damaged skin barrier can cause the skin to “become less effective at keeping bacteria and clogged pores at bay”. What does that mean? Well, in short, it could mean breakouts or acne are more likely. Dr Galadari details how “the texture might feel rough, and your complexion could look dull or uneven, since the barrier isn’t locking in hydration like it should.”
While Dr Galadari does stipulate many things can cause harm to our skin barriers, he lists the following factors as common interferences:
Thankfully, Dr Galadari reveals, there are plenty of topical options, across a range of price points. On the lower end of the price scale, he suggests the CeraVe hydrating cleanser (£10, Amazon.co.uk) and the Neutrogena hydro boost water gel moisturiser (£9.19, Amazon.co.uk). For the former, he puts his recommendation down to the fact “it’s gentle, non-stripping, and packed with ceramides and hyaluronic acid, to replenish moisture”. As for the Neutrogena formula, Dr Galadari praises how it offers “lightweight hydration”.
If you’ve a bit more expendable income at your disposal, Dr Galadari likes both Augustinus Bader’s the rich cream (£150, Cultbeauty.co.uk) and Tatcha’s the dewy skin cream (£67, Selfridges.com). Dr Galadari says the Augustinus Bader cream is “a standout for its regenerative technology that supports healing”, while Tatcha’s is “packed with fatty acids and ceramides to rebalance your skin’s moisture, while leaving it plump and glowing”.
For natural solutions, Dr Galadari refers to honey, colloidal oatmeal, aloe vera and avocado oil. Honey, he explains, is hydrating “and has antibacterial properties to calm and heal the skin”, while colloidal oatmeal – which is often used as an at-home remedy for conditions such as eczema and psoriasis – is “great for soothing irritation and keeping moisture in”.
While you might typically associate aloe vera with remedying the symptoms of sunburn, Dr Galadari explains how its anti-inflammatory properties come in just as handy in cases of fragile skin barriers. Paired together with the moisturising factors of avocado oil (according to Dr Galadari, it’s “loaded with healthy fats and vitamins that replenish your skin’s natural oils”), your skin will be in tip top condition in no time.
Want more skincare advice? Here’s everything you need to know about glycerin
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2025-01-20T13:23:23Z